We'd raided the local supermarket in expectation of heading into the "wilds" as we set off on another cold morning leaving Ispagnac and the magical scenery of the Tarn Gorge behind us as we headed for the Cevennes.
It was mainly "main road" riding as we headed out through Florac and branching off to take in vast and beautiful Cevennes National Park where roads signs told us that we were gradually working our way up to our expected top of the day of 900 metres !
The Cevennes is a beautiful area of hidden valleys. The Author Robert Louis Stevenson trekked through here with his donkey in 1878 establishing a route that to this day is considered one of the most famous walking tracks in France the GR70.
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| It's a cold start in the Cevennes ! |
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| Robert Louis Stevenson territory ! |
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| Strop on tour ! |
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| Time for lunch ! |
Re-energized we climbed to about 850 metres taking in the magical views below before descending and climbing once more. We'd expected a blip reading the profile and this one was quite savage having us grinding away for 3-4 kms at 8-10% gaining back most of the terrain we'd lost in our descent.
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| The beautiful Cevennes ! |
Finally close to 900 metres we "sumited" took in some deep breaths and descended at speed for at least 15 kms down towards the valley leading into Alles. H made himself popular with a couple of drivers one which snuck up behind him while he was occupying most of the road blasted their horn scaring the bejesus out of him while another (an articulated truck) wished him well (not) when he tried to get round H who'd had positioned himself on the corner of a narrow bridge - needless to say our cultural ambassador was hard at work !!
Our last short minor road descent was a wrist breaker with hairpins, a 1/2 gravel concoction and a 20% gradient which had most of our brakes squealing (mine howling) as we descended down to river level.
Finally out of the Cevennes we headed into Alles who's claim to fame on its signposts was that it was the Pittsburgh of France - not something that i'd want to be shouting out loud about !
As a business centre Alles was sadly a dump, ugly appartment buildings, mine tailings on the hills, overgrown weeds along its river bed and a never ending stream of traffic !
With a need to consult the maps and accommodate Noel's on tour addiction to milkshakes we pulled over briefly near the center of town before again battling traffic to get the hell out !
With Rick's expert guidance we soon weeved our way out through the suburbs of Alles now an incredibly brown and dry landscape no doubt due to a lack of rain and the influence of the not so far away mediteranean !
With some steep pinches we were beginning to feel it by the time we jumped on to the main road for most of our remaining journey.
We entered the small village of St Jean thinking that the GPS co-ordinates had taken us to our accommodation. The expression from the two startled residents who viewed us entering their property told us otherwise and we went slightly further into town before our b&b owner announced our arrival by sticking his head out the window !
While our room might not have delighted with all 4 of us in the one room the rest of the house was beautiful with many outdoor and breakaway areas. Our hosts were a delight and we took advantage of their French meal offer having an aperitif (i.e the drunks Henley, self & Rick ) pre dinner (white wine mixed with a fortified wine) and 2 courses of local specialties.
The ability to sit down with the couple in a family environment in their lovely house was worth the money alone and gave us a greater geo-political understanding of what France is all about !
Another good day on the road and another day of +1, 000 metres of climbing (1300 !)
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